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Algeria
"... I felt like in Gaza ..."
The readers of the Swiss motorbike magazine Töff already know, that one
of their writers Michael Kutschke bought news from his Cameroon-Niger-Algeria-Tunisia-trip.
Even if somebody don't care about security, he will not have fun travelling
Algeria this time. Apart from the border post in Taleb Larbi the numerous
military and police checkpoints are not only unpleasant. They can get
quite nasty. Travelling is allowed only with guide and on tarmac (that's
what all travellers from South to North report). The fee for the guides
you can only describe as modern caravan protection money: In Guezzam -
Tam = 400 Euro. Michael's group therefore entered at Djanet. For the further
travelling from Djanet to Taleb Larbi they had to pay 560 Euro: 3 days
tarmac with 30 to 40 military checkpoints. Travelling without guide is
not possible: When Michael sometimes travelled in front with his motorbike,
they always got in trouble at the checkpoints. Places for the night were
allocated. Preferentially beside the street and at patrol stations. If
the guests want to pitch up their tent 50 metres beside in the dunes,
they got in trouble again. The checkpoints are nervous, seemed to be not
informed and always starting interrogations. Djanet - Tam is closed of
safety reasons for tourists with own vehicle even if they have a local
guide. But the safety reasons obviously disapearing in reverse direction
Tam - Djanet: The travel agencies from Tam are allowed to take this route
with their flight tourists. Reaching Taleb Larbi the conclusion of the
guide was: "Now I know, why nobody is coming anymore. This is not a journey,
this is a torture."
Niger
Dirkou - Djanet is officially close. Even with guide there was no possibility
to get a permission for Michael Kutschke's travel group. Djado inevitable
is taboo. Actual information from the German discussions in the Sahara-Info.ch
showing more of the picture: Even with strict obligation for local guides
for Air and Tenere there is no protection guaranteed.
Libya
Travellers returning from Libya confirming the guide practice. The last
group we know, even was forced to take a further security guide. The only
got rid of them at the departure. However rumours keep themselves persistent
that the visa politics are to be liberalized.
We hope there will be new reports from other travellers, who return from
their Libya trip this weekend.
Sudan
As we heard Bradt is working on a travel guide for Sudan. It is supposed
to appear in December.
Tanzania
Different travellers told us about the new fence at the popular Campsite
Kipepeo (Dar es Salaam). It is a see-through fence, made from thin tree
branches chest-high (for me that means probably up to the vertex; -) ).
It has been installed after an incident. They also put armed guards on
duty like it is already usual at other campsites. This is what the owners
confirmed. But they told us that they didn't seal up the beach ;-) and
the picturesque cows can still take their walk along the beach in the
evenings.
Kenia
There is still roadwork going on at the notorious road Mombasa - Nairobi
(200 km are already ok).
The swiss couple Rene and Sonia Kaegi met an English couple in Nairobi
who was mugged on their way to Moyale. Curiously they got their mobile
phone, their GPS and other value stuff back in Nairobi. Only the considerable
amount of money, the credit cards and the robbers were still missing.
Unfortunately it seems, the now got the opinion that tourist bring in
more than cattle and locals (which have been the victims of the usual
armed robberies on this stretch so far). Details are published in German
in the 10. newsletter at www.rs-verlag.ch.
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